Slowly but surely, the sun is getting more intense as we creep into warmer weather. For those of us prone to hyperpigmentation, it means we need to get vigilant about protecting our skin from the overproduction of melanin that comes from sun damage. Staying on top of sunscreen is step one (snag one with iron oxides for the best defense), and step two is incorporating ingredients into your daily skin-care routine that prevent dark spots, melasma, and more. To do that, Emily Trampetti, an esthetician in Chicago, says to reach for azelaic acid and tranexamic acid.
“Azelaic acid and tranexamic acid are wonderful brighteners for the skin,” says Trampetti. “They’re excellent, excellent, excellent for people who are prone to hyperpigmentation. Especially in summer months when you really want to prevent melanogenesis—that process in the skin that creates pigment and sun damage—from occurring.”
New from Farmacy, the Brighten Up 3% TXA Dark Spot Toner ($34) heroes these two dark-spot-busting ingredients. It contains 3 percent tranexamic acid to brighten skin and reduce the look of dark spots while azelaic acid evens skin tone and brightens dull skin. Both are made more effective with a boost from gluconolactone, a poly-hydroxy acid, that gently exfoliates, allowing the star ingredients to soak in and do their thing. Plus, it has upcycled tangerine peel to hydrate and provide antioxidant protection against environmental aggressors like pollution.
Getting ahead of hyperpigmentation is key, especially if you have a deeper skin tone, as these skin types tend to get hyperpigmentation more easily than others. “Hyperpigmentation can be much more severe and longer-lasting in darker skin tones, which in turn can make it more difficult to treat,” says Brittaney Trent, an esthetician in New York City.
Now is the best time to incorporate azelaic acid and tranexamic acid into your routine because your skin is in a nice neutral place. It’s not being irritated by the cold and dry winter air or the super hot summer sun. So get your skin used to these ingredients now before it’s craving them come summer.
“Springtime is wonderful for the skin,” says Trampetti. She says that’s because we’re spending more time outside, which means we’re moving more and boosting circulation which increases nutrient distribution within the skin. “It’s a great time to reevaluate where you’re at with your routine and your goals and to really observe if your skin is where you want it to be.”
If preventing and treating hyperpigmentation is on your skin to-do list, use the Brighten Up Toner after you wash your face and before the rest of your routine, both morning and night. It’s the perfect way to kick-start your warm-weather skin routine.